Let’s talk about why paint won’t stick to silicone.
I’ll start off by saying, “Every Silicone Artist is going to have their paint not stick, more times than you’re expecting.” It is all part of the job. A Baker deals with flour on his shirt, a Chimney Sweeper deals with soot on his face, and a Silicone Artist deals with paint not sticking. In fact, it happens so often that I know many people who would never pour and sell silicone kits to others because they just can’t deal with their customers saying ‘ my paint is not sticking’.
So, if your paint doesn’t stick, you are not alone. But if you are planning on painting more than one doll, then you are going to have to learn how to battle and conquer this for yourself. And that is why I am going to break down a troubleshooting list for painters to go through to help when your paint doesn’t stick.
*this article is written for PLATINUM-based silicone. NOT FOR TIN-based! Make sure your kit and all silicone supplies are Platinum-based. Lots of knock-offs and Chinese silicone and factory manufactured silicone dolls are tin-based so to keep costs down. If your silicone doll was inexpensive it’s a good indication it is most likely poured in TIN.
1.) Did you properly wash your silicone piece? Most of all the Silicone Castor/Pourers I know will always go the extra mile and effort to thoroughly clean their kits before sending them off to their customers. When a silicone doll/piece is being poured, Pourers will spray/coat a release mold into their molds to prevent the silicone from bonding to it. This release agent remains on each pulled piece and the Pourer will then scrub with soap and solvents to wash off the release so it is easier for the Painter to paint. Sometimes the release agent lingers or spots are missed on a prepped kit and it is the responsibility of each Painter to go through the process of re-cleaning and prepping their piece before painting. Maybe even twice.
This is how I clean my pieces: Scrub down each piece with Dawn dish Soap, hot, hot water, and a soft toothbrush. You can even leave your piece in soapy water overnight and all the dirt will float to the top! RINSE THOROUGHLY (soap is also a release agent)!!!! Then I wipe down with 99% isopropyl alcohol and will do a pass of NOVOC gloss (these two chemicals can be done in either order). These solvents dissolve any soap residue or any remaining oils. Now the piece is ready to paint.
*some use a different method. If unsure you can ask the Pourer what they recommend.
*some also use matting powder on their kit before shipping it to take away the stickiness. This also needs to be washed off! Go ahead and read my Blog Post ‘Prepping Silicone Kits’.
2.) Is your paint old? Manufacturers say most Silicone ( we are talking mainly about Psycho Paint Silicone in this post) have a shelf life of about a year. Here are the SmoothOn recommendations for Psycho Paint:
This being said I’ve had my paints sit on a shelf longer than the recommended shelf life and they were still great. So, if your silicone paints have been sitting for a while just do a little test (you’re going to hear me say ‘TEST’ a lot in this post!) of mixing A and B together in a pot or palette and see if it cures. If it does… they should be still good.
3.) Was your paint properly mixed? This area can have a few mistakes. Most all Platinum Silicones I know of are mixed by adding equal amounts by volume or weight of Part A to Silicone Part B. When mixing your Silicone you need to be careful to be accurate. A teaspoon of Part A needs a teaspoon of Part B. 250grams of Part A needs 250grams of Part B. 1oz of Part A needs 1oz of Part B… to catalyze properly. This is important.
Here are a few scenarios that have happened where mixing wasn’t done properly (and it happens to everyone and more often than you think):
- Improper amount (volume or weight) of A to B (or vice versa)
- Not carefully and clearly marking your bottles of A and B and mixing A and A together (or B and B together).
- Forgetting which Part you put into your pot and then mixing together the wrong Part to catalyze.
- Too much or the wrong thinner with your silicone. I’ve accidentally put my alcohol into my Silicone instead of my NOVOC (bottles looked the same.. try and get different color bottles or labels, lol) and then it was completely ruined. Recommended amounts of thinner are:
- Improper amount of pigment added to your silicone (if you’re not using a pre-mixed color). If you’re using a Psycho Paint base the recommendations of pigments are 2-5% of total weight of A and B TOGETHER. So you may be adding too much pigment to your Silicone. OR some pigments can be oily and if you don’t shake them well enough you just get the oil on the top and that can inhibit cure. Recommended amounts of pigment are:
4.) Did your piece touch something to inhibit the cure? Your reputable Pourer will NOT have anything in their workplace that will hurt the pieces they poured. They will go above and beyond not to have anything even NEAR their Silicone Pieces because they know that even the smell of these inhibitors could affect their Silicone. Latex, Sulfer, Tin Silicone…. all of these will inhibit the cure of your Silicone. And all of these things are in many many things. Gloves, sponges, pacifiers, other dolls… etc. So when you opened your box and pulled out your kit was there anything it could have touched from that moment to painting it, that could have inhibited your kit…. even on your hands? Here are some materials that will cause Platinum Silicone Inhibition:
- Sulfur-based clay or gloves
- Tin-cured silicone rubbers
- Polyurethane rubbers
- Latex rubber
- Some paint products
- Some 3D printed plastic materials
- Bondo (and other polyester resin products)
- Amines, (ammonia)
* I give credit to Tom McLaughlin who says it perfectly, ‘ Platinum Silicone will not cure in the PRESENCE of these materials.’
5.) What are your sponges made of? This is HUGE! In the last year, more and more people are starting to paint silicone and they don’t realize that their sponges have latex in them. And I will say, it’s not their fault because some sponge brands are deceiving… because they say LATEX-FREE. But what is deceiving is there is both synthetic and natural latex… So the package may say Latex-free but that is because there is no SYNTHETIC Latex in them….. BUT NATURAL Latex can still be there. Some sponges even have lotions like Vitamin E or some other additive in them. So, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, every time you get a new package of sponges, TEST THEM!!!! Even if you get them from a recommended silicone source, TEST THEM!!
Simple test: Mix Part A and Part B together in a pot and apply a nice size glob on a sponge (two sponges if you wanna make double sure). If it cures solid in the proper curing time, they are ok to use. If the silicone is gummy to the touch or when you stamp it, throw it out, they are BAD!
These are my favorite: (STILL TEST!)
6.) What are your gloves made of? This one is the same as sponges!!! So many issues with gloves!!! It is very important to pay attention to because sometimes gloves will say latex-free but they may have something in them that will inhibit Silicone cure. Nitrile gloves are one of those gloves that you really need to watch out for because they may have sulfur in them to make them stronger than an average vinyl glove. A tell-tale sign is your silicone isn’t sticking to the back of the head but it is on the face. The spot where you cradle in your hands is the place where you will get inhibition. So what do I say???? ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, every time you get a new package of gloves or on EVERY glove, TEST THEM!!!!
Simple test: Mix Part A and Part B together in a pot and apply a nice size glob all over the glove and fingertips. If it cures solid in the proper curing time, they are ok to use (the silicone should just peel off and you’re able to use the glove again).
7.) Are you even wearing gloves? There are oils on your hand along with other transfers and those oils can inhibit the cure of silicone. OR it can even act as a barrier between the piece and your silicone paint so that the paint will cure but possibly can be rubbed off because it didn’t get a proper bond. Clean gloves or even Saran wrap (acting as a glove) is always recommended. I don’t like gloves so I will scrub my hands clean and use Cling-Wrap or Saran wrap as a glove between my hand and piece.
8.) What are your other materials made of? Brushes, palettes, other supplies. What you are laying your piece on? Someone used a plastic table setting Mat for their work surface…. but when she applied silicone to it it wouldn’t cure. And it was affecting the cure of her paint because all her pieces were resting on it. Heartbreaking!!! What is touching your piece as it dries. Everything your silicone piece touches should be analyzed as to whether it could cause Silicone Inhibition (re-read Point 4 for materials that cause Inhibition)… Again, if you think it could be something specific, TEST IT!
9.) Have you heat-cured? This is a little hidden gem. Silicone can be very finicky about the temperature in the room. Too cold and it will NOT cure. And if cold for too long, it will just never cure. So if your room is too cold OR your paint isn’t curing in proper time OR you just want to hurry the process up, heat works like a gem! A regular hair dryer is great or a crafters heat gun. (i don’t recommend an oven). Here is the recommendations:
10.) What are the solvents you are using? The recommended thinner/solvent from me is Smooth On’s NOVOC Gloss (or Matte but I personally never use this). However, there are other solvents you can use to thin your silicone. I will make a list but AGAIN ….hahahaha.. you know it…. TEST!
Simple test: STEP 1: Mix Part A and Part B together in a pot and add your chosen thinner. If it cures in the pot, its good.
STEP 2: Apply some of this thinned silicone to the unseen flange of your silicone kit or in a spot that will not be seen. Cure. If it cures, your good to go.
Please remember Point 3 about thinners. Too much can inhibit cure.
Here is a list of other Solvents: (please remember some are flammable and are not good for the lungs. Read directions first!)
Naptha, Colman Lighter Fluid, SAM Odorless Silicone Solvent, Odorless Paint Thinner, Mineral Spirits, Mona Lisa Thinner.
11.) What does your environment look like? Room Temperature; too hot, too cold? Is there Latex in the room? In the next room? You may think this is ridiculous but I went to a workshop years ago in a Reynolds Class (silicone pros) and they talked about how latex was in the next room and just passing from room to room was inhibiting cure. Silicone is SOO SOO finicky that you may not always know what the issue is other than it being a stubborn, traumatic teenager who is just NOT gonna listen!!!
So, what happens if 1 and all 11 of these things occur???? What can you do? Here are some of ‘my recommendations’ along with what others have found helpful:
First, find out what is causing the inhibition and fix it.
Second, your piece needs to be cleaned again. I will clean it, prep it, heat it, and then clean and prep it again. (soap, water, alcohol, NOVOC). Usually, this works just great and my paint will now stick. To make sure, I will do a tiny, thin test patch of CLEAR PartA and PartB and cure it with heat. And then see if I can rub it off. If it’s cured and not budging, you’re good to go.
Third, sometimes the inhibition is REAL. You need some major help and thankfully there are some great products out there to get your Silicone Paint to stick! I advise every long term Silicone Artist out there to have one or all of these products on hand at all times:
You can use a product called InhibitX (I love the stuff, others don’t, just preferance).
There is a full page of instructions for this amazing product that I will let you research for yourself but basically, it’s a liquid you brush or spray on that acts as an adhesive and bond for your paint to your piece.
Some will use just NOVOC GLOSS for their cleaning and re-prepping. I learned from Christina Whiting that NOVOC can help open the actual “pores” of the silicone allowing your silicone piece to take paint more easily. A particulate mask (respirator) is always advised when using chemicals but I don’t because it doesn’t have any “volatile organic compounds” and that’s where the name NOVOCS came from but please, use one if you feel it’s necessary. Here is what that looks like
I also REALLY LOVE FuseFX’s BONDFX. Expensive BUT is a two-part Platinum silicone coating that can be brushed or sprayed over tin based silicones, rendering the surface compatible with platinum silicones. And that also means surfaces that have been contaminated with inhibitors.
Well, that’s it for now! A bit of a long post, eh!!! Let me say now, that this is all from my, ( KrisC from The Dainty Loft), experience. Some may have other ideas or suggestions and that is GREAT! Whatever works! These are the things that work for me! AND I will gladly and gratefully add to this whatever information other Professional Pourers/Painters/Silicone Makers (rhymes, lol) have to offer!!! So please write me if you do!!!
Once I couldn’t figure out why my kit, fresh out of the box and washed and prepped, wouldn’t allow my paint to stick. I TRIED EVERYTHING. In the end, the Pourer helped me and I covered that baby head to toe with Inhibit X and it was a DREAM to paint!!! Once, on another kit, I had to do the same with BondFX because the InhibitX wouldn’t work. I guess what I am saying is if you’re going to work with Silicone, there are guarantees to have paint issues and you’re going to have to be a Detective and go through a rigorous (and yes! stressful, especially if its a custom) time to figure things out and fix it.
* I do want to say, that in the past we may have thought if our paint wasn’t sticking the problem could lie with the Pourer or the place where we got the kit. That they made a bad kit or a kit that just inhibits paint. With much research from many Smooth-On Reps that information for me has changed. Unless the Pourer made its kit or mold out of tin or another non-platinum based silicone, the problems that occur with inhibition have predominately been issues that are the ones listed above and not with the Pourer. What CAN happen is it still has the Release agent on the kit and it’s being stubborn to come off.)ALSO, on the topic of Pourers, it’s so important to buy from a reputable Pourer or Company. Chinese KnockOffs and Silicone dolls have WRECKED the industry and I 100% do not recommend painting their silicone or vinyl dolls.
I hope this post and information helps you and thank you for taking the time to read it.
*some information has been referenced from Tom McLaughlin’s book Silicone Art… an excellent source for any Silicone Artist’s toolbox 🙂
22 thoughts on “Why Doesn’t My Paint Stick?”
I’m having a problem with the paint not sticking on my partial Rosalie, I painted her creases, lips, ears, feet and hands and it was a dream but the first skin layer is not curing, I’m using a measuring spoon to make sure the amount of parts A and B are right, tested everything for latex and had to remove the paint 4 times and paint already…. I made 2 other partial silicone and had no issues with the paint not sticking, I’m going to buy the bond fix before going insane, I didn’t know that there was hope to fix this problem! I learned a lot from you right now, thank you so much for taking the time to explain so well , I really appreciate it.
Kesia Rayner’s reborn dolls
Kesia, let’s do some investigating.
First, did you read my entire post and troubleshoot? Check your paint in your pot? Test your gloves and sponges? If not, please go back and check off each step.
Second, you say your first layer of paint (creases, hands, feet) went on nicely but the second layer (or first layer of skin) is the problem… correct? Could it be your gloves from handling it when you painted the creases, hands and feet, and lips? If these layers cured, then I wouldn’t look at the silicone so much as the things that touched it.
Could it be you’re over thinning your paint?
How are you removing your paint? Are you washing it every time you remove the paint?
Lets start with these questions and go from there. We can figure this out 🙂
Thank you so much for replying, I went through all the steps testing sponges, gloves and even one of the paint brushes I’m using, I washed the kit very well the way you explained then cleaned with novocs and alcohol 99% , the details I painted first cured perfectly and I used Enfis pigments plus psycho parts a and b, I used the same latex free gloves when painting the other 2 Rosalies and the paint cured , I’m going to test every glove I use from now on just in case. Today I used fuseFX on her skin after doing all the cleaning process and it’s not sticking , I used very little novocs and the paint was quite thick , thank you so much for helping me to solve this mystery 😀 ⚘
I read everything and checked all the paints and they are all good, I also don’t think that the silicone kit has any problem otherwise the paint wouldn’t stick anywhere else, maybe some of the gloves have latex. I’m still on the first layer of skin… I’m going to try another brand of latex free gloves and see how it goes , thank you Kris ⚘
You are so right! Good job in deciphering that! It’s the exact thought I had… if it was the kit, the other paint wouldn’t have cured. I cannot tell you how many people have problems with gloves and sponges. I only use Saran wrap. It takes a bit to get use to but I use them as gloves… as a barrier between my hands and the kit and the bonus is, all the covered spots stay clean and lintfree. If you have inhibition on your silicone (especially if its latex) the problem won’t be solved with washing/cleaning it with soap and alcohol. You gotta pull out the big guns!!! Along with BondFX, I really recommend InhibitX. It’s a liquid you simply paint on the problem area and after a half-hour, its dry and your ready to paint. Its a must have! (because inhibition happens so frequently that we painters just expect it now, lol). Proud of you for not giving up! You got this!
I think that’s worth it to stop using gloves like you did because we can’t trust that they are latex free like it says on the box, it makes sense that that they are the problem, I’m going to wash the kit really well again. Can I us the inhibit spray then the fuseFX bond on the top if needed? Thank you so much for helping me not to give up lol, thank you very much! 🌷
You are so welcome!
In most cases, InhibitX will do the job. Especially if its inhibition caused by gloves. But yes, you can add BondFX on top, just make sure to do the rub test = paint a small spot of BondFx, cure and try to rub off. If it doesn’t move, do more spots but after cure, rub to make sure the paint doesn’t move. If cured properly, it won’t budge. Then your good to go!
That’s great to know, I’m going to do it as soon as the inhibit is delivered and I believe that the paint is going to stick , I can’t thank you enough for being so kind ⚘
Anytime, my friend! Best of endeavors!!! And Thank you for being so sweet!
Thank you ⚘❤
Wow, thank you both for this great conversation, and such a pity I didn’t see it earlier when I had my problems with my baby doll 🙁 – but for the next paint jobs, I am prepared!! Went shopping today and guess what was in my shopping cart 😀
Thank you for the lovely feedback!!! Its all in the learning process and I am certain from your previous trials you have learned a lot for your next baby. Enjoy what is in your cart 😉
Hi KrisC, thanks so much for your reply, yes I did and of course we are still learning. The first painting kit I got from this shop was a couple of years ago when I used to travel a lot to the USA. I still have the jars :D.
May I asked a question:
some silicon paint on a baby doll is working nice and smooth – very nice soften color, no spots nothing nice washed out color – I like to paint very thin and blend it out
other silicone dolls using the same fuse fx color are almost impossible to make a smooth blending out color on the doll – the result on the doll is a watery base color look with a lot of very very tiny spots – which I really do not like at all – these spots – thanks, Sabina
Hi there! I just bought a fbs silicone doll that I was planning to paint in a year or so (I’m a vinyl artist only at the moment), but I was told that there may be a time limit on how long I can wait to paint if I want it to cure. He is Eco 20. Is this something I should be concerned about, and if so, how long to I have? I bought this particular doll for myself and didn’t want to reborn him until I was somewhat comfortable with the process. Thanks in advance!
So the Technical Data Sheet from Smooth-On says this ‘For optimum results the silicone skin/surface, should be painted as soon as possible after demolding. We recommend that the cured piece to be painted be no more than 2 days old.’
However, unless you are the pourer and a painter, this cant be reasonable.
I’ve had silicone kits that have been 10 years old and I’ve had no problems with them. You just need to prep them very well. That may include a light sanding or bristle scrubbing and a first primer layer of clear Psycho Paint. But, in my opinion, the age of the silicone has not been an issue. Hope that helps, KrisC
Hi Kris I would like to ask you a big favour please 🌸I painted 3 Rosalie’s kits ( partial silicone) and they turned up with a nice skin tone but I’m still not sure what colour to use to neutralise the kit, I’m about to start painting Sam and I would like to feel more confident when neutralising him , do you have a good choice of colour to use to neutralise him and the other partial silicone kits sold by Macphersons?
Just one more thing 🙈 can I use can I use two different brands of silicone paints in the same kit? At the moment I have fusefx and enfis at the moment ,Thank you so much 😊
Great questions! So when you are neutralizing, you are getting the vinyl or silicone to more of a base color. A neutral color. All of MacPherson’s silicones are a light skin tone with a very neutral color. So you will have to tell me why you would like to neutralize them. What base color would you like to achieve? Then we can go from there. Second question, yes from my experience you can definitely use two different brands of silicone paints as long as both are made for platinum silicone. However, I would not add Enfis (pigment) to FuseFx (pigmented silicone) as it may cause the balance of ratio of silicone to pigment to be uneven and not cure. So if you are going to interchange brands I would make sure each one cures on its own. EX. use FFX for veins, cure… use Enfis with Psycho Paint for blushing, cure, so on and so on. Hope that helps. Please feel free to ask any other questions! KrisC
Hi Kris sorry for taking so long to reply, I have long covid and wasn’t feeling well for few days. I’m so glad to know that I can use both brands when painting the same kit , I want to finish using them so I can buy yours. I thought that I had to make the silicone look even lighter to have good results but it’s very good to know from you that there is no need and I can work on their skin tone without worrying, I feel more confident now, thank you so much for taking your time to reply, have a lovely evening 😊🌸
You are so welcome!!! Sorry to hear about long covid!!! But thrilled to hear and know you are feeling more confident with your silicone painting journey! Keep having fun!
Thank you so much Kris, I’m really enjoying painting silicone babies specially having my silly questions answered by you, I really appreciate your help 😊💖
Hi Kris and regards from Finland 🙂 I have your paints and partial silicones are waiting for painting. I think i need some curs this first time. Do you have any tutorial to buy, Kris, for you paints?
I have ordered strarter kit and also every colour and A/B separate BUT but i was so stupid, that i did not understood to order with tutorial